Pierre-Louis Mascia presented his Fall/Winter 2025 collection on January 17, 2025, in Milan, offering a thought-provoking vision of suspended time and liberated space. Set in a stark industrial environment, the show unfolded as a narrative where characters embarked on a wandering journey to seek connection, emotion, and resilience in an unpredictable world. The raw setting contrasted with the softness of the designs, creating a vivid exploration of human fragility and the creative process as acts of resistance and hope.
The collection drew from diverse influences, including the Victorian era, the Italian Renaissance, and the poetry of John Keats. These inspirations culminated in a series of designs that celebrated the Schopenhauerian ideal of the artist as a solitary figure, deeply sensitive to fleeting beauty in an often indifferent world. Silhouettes flowed gracefully, balancing strength and fragility, a recurring theme in Mascia’s work that underscores the emotional depth of his creations.
This season’s designs embraced fluid tailoring and movement, with long silk-lined coats, ethereal dresses, and protective shawls enveloping the wearer. Velvet kimonos and quilted jackets added elements of warmth and resilience, while flowing trousers and soft bombers offered modern versatility. The garments spoke to an understated sophistication, designed to cocoon and comfort in a world that often feels uncertain.
The signature aesthetic of Pierre-Louis Mascia took center stage, characterized by intricate prints and unconventional combinations. Collaborating with Achille Pinto, a historic textile printing workshop in Como, Mascia introduced 20 new prints, including 10 specifically for ready-to-wear. These prints merged analog and digital techniques, transforming Victorian portraits, Pre-Raphaelite-inspired drawings, and fragments from Bright Star into layered, expressive narratives. Each print embodied a search for fleeting beauty, emphasizing the ephemeral nature of art and life.
Beyond the surface, the collection offered a profound commentary on the creative process itself. Mascia explored the idea of wandering as both a literal and metaphorical act, reflecting the freedom and vulnerability inherent in creation. For the designer, art becomes a means of resisting the pressures of an indifferent world, capturing the duality of beauty and pain that defines the human experience.
The runway presentation was elevated by an original soundtrack composed by Thomas Zaï-Gillot, guided by the artistic direction of Irréel Studio. The music complemented the themes of the collection, blending classical influences from Gustav Mahler with the raw intensity of post-punk sounds reminiscent of The Cure. This immersive auditory dimension deepened the emotional impact of the show, turning it into a multisensory exploration of art and fashion.
Hair/Key Artist: Giulio Ordonselli per TONI&GUY Italia using Label.m products
