During Milan Fashion Week, John Richmond‘s Spring Summer 2025 collection left a lasting impression. It was a vivid examination of the underground culture, filled with raw creativity and vitality. Richmond, who finds inspiration in personal experiences and subcultures, embraces the chaos and energy of realising that the old is once again new. The collection is both nostalgic and forward-thinking because it draws from the real-life experiences and social universes of the subcultures it references.
The location itself provided the backdrop for the story of the collection, with walls plastered in posters that recalled famous London venues like the Cha Cha Club and Blitz from the late 1970s music scene. This provided a fitting homage to the Northern Soul movement, reflected in the high-waisted wide trousers, nipped-in knit tanks, and embellished bomber jackets that strutted down the runway. The collection seamlessly blended the 70s’ influence with the rebellious spirit of the 80s, capturing the essence of punk and new wave through exaggerated shoulders, DIY skirts, and kilts. Richmond’s brand was infused with a punk references that was reflected in the hand-painted leather bikers, bleached skinhead trousers, and studded denim jackets.
This season, black dominated Richmond’s colour scheme, providing an intriguing foundation for vibrant bursts of fuchsia pink, red, and deep azure blue. Dusty ivories and gentle earthy neutrals were used to contrast with these vivid colours. The evening dress section featured exquisitely made outfits with luxurious satin lapels, quality wools, and silver jacquard flower tattoos for an extra dash of opulence. The collection gained edge from exaggerated luxury sporting features like oversized printed MA-1 satin nylons and twinset track outfits.
Accessories played a crucial role in the collection’s personality, with multi-lace leather bras, dog-clipped DIY handkerchiefs, and heavy-duty platform fringe wedges. The accessories, ranging from romantic suedes to tough patent leathers, added layers of texture and character to the ensembles. Luxurious silver Cuban chains and customized embroidered heritage patches further characterized the collection’s look.
Working with Peter Hook, who wrote the soundtrack, was one of the show’s most notable aspects. Parts of the drum and synth compositions paid homage to Richmond’s Manchester origins by layering and cutting Joy Division’s songs with gritty noise, symphonic recordings, and tube sounds. This audio-visual tribute gave the collection a strong vibe. Take a closer look at the John Richmond Spring Summer 25 collection in the Gallery below:
