During Milan Fashion Week, David Koma debuted his first menswear line with his Spring Summer 2025 collection. Koma views this endeavour as a natural development of his “Club Koma” brand. Because Koma designs with his male friends in mind and sees himself as the consumer, this collection is very personal to him. Through the inclusion of a wider range of voices and viewpoints within the brand’s sphere, this new chapter expands the inclusivity and reach of his creative vision.
Koma’s shift to menswear follows his recent womenswear collection, which took cues from legendary dancers like Pina Bausch and Candela Capitan. The collection goes further into the world of dance, inspired by Jiří Kylián’s contemporary ballet, “Sarabande,” a piece that explores the complex interplay of male aggression and vulnerability. Koma found relevance in the performance’s “formation” theme, which informed the menswear collection’s complex designs and dynamic characteristics.
The goal of the new collection is to portray the many and varied personalities that make up Koma’s social circle while also capturing the essence of masculinity. Juxtapositions play a pivotal role, combining commonplace and distinctive qualities to create a balanced portrayal of the Koma Man. This figure has a gentle, sensual aura and portrays strength, aloofness, and independence. Subtle references to sensuality and playfulness balance with the blatantly masculine utilitarian overtones.
David Koma elevates quintessential wardrobe materials with unique embellishments and innovative techniques. Office-like poplins are reimagined in military shirting and boxer shorts, while denim appears in dusty indigo or raw boucle. Leather pieces range from tailored to casual, offered in soft napa or heavily distressed forms. Tailored shapes in cady, satin, and wool boucle are decorated with branded chrome hardware and garter-like details, referencing Gavin Turk’s 1993 artwork “Pop.” The collection also features embellishments and opulent feather plumes, balanced by casual jersey elements that have a lived-in quality, reminiscent of dancers’ personal wardrobes. Take a closer look at theDavid Koma Men’s Spring Summer 25 collection in the Gallery below:
