SIMKHAI Spring Summer 25 collection by Jonathan Simkhai narrates personal family history, taking inspiration from his mother’s wedding dress as the foundation. The delicate craftsmanship of the dress, originally created by his late grandfather in their family’s lace mill in Iran, becomes the central element. Silk tulle embroidery and floral patterns, once part of cherished family memories, are reimagined in this collection. Through the use of three-dimensional floral appliqué and hand-crocheted metallics on dresses, suiting, and knitwear, Simkhai transforms these sentimental memories into a modern and expressive collection. The collection is deeply rooted in a moment when Simkhai stumbled upon a silk petal while organizing his closet. This discovery sparked a creative process, with the petal serving as a key inspiration for the season. Starting as a subtle motif, the floral details evolve into more pronounced sculptural elements, creating a sense of growth and change throughout the collection. Techniques such as fin pleating and laser-cut leather are contrasted with softer materials, balancing sharpness with an underlying tenderness in each piece.
Color plays a crucial role in illustrating this evolution. The collection transitions from muted earth tones into vibrant shades, reflecting a process of unfolding and transformation. Each color shift represents a step in the journey from past to present, with every hue adding depth to the narrative. Simkhai explores structure through A-line silhouettes, sharp pleats, and dynamic lines, crafting garments that possess both strength and sensitivity. The introduction of menswear onto the runway for the first time signals a significant expansion of the brand. By venturing into men’s fashion, Simkhai experiments with elements of craftsmanship—such as crochet and floral appliqué—within traditionally masculine pieces. These garments, while still in harmony with the collection’s theme, showcase Simkhai’s ability to stretch his creative vision into new territories.
A key feature of the collection is the use of contrasting fabrics to craft parallel designs. The recurring floral motifs, rendered through both machine embroidery and hand-crafted detailing, provide continuity throughout the collection. These motifs evolve from their initial subtle form into more daring three-dimensional interpretations, echoing the transformation that follows the collection’s narrative.
