Rei Kawakubo’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, was a striking blend of theatrical flair and iconic silhouettes. This season, Kawakubo found inspiration in the recent opening of Dover Street Market Paris and the simultaneous celebrations of la fête de la musique. Reflecting on her collection titled “The Hope of Light,” Kawakubo shared, “I want to hope for some light, even if very small.”
The show cleverly fused fashion with music, set to the London Symphony Orchestra’s performance of Eric Satie’s “Parade,” a ballet known for its innovative costumes by Picasso. The eclectic soundtrack, featuring sounds of sirens, guns, and typewriters, perfectly complemented Kawakubo’s whimsical vision. Models adorned with vibrant hair clip headpieces embodied the playful spirit of the collection.
Kawakubo’s mastery of mixed media was evident in the collection, featuring ruffled cavalry coats and voluminous clown collars. The transition from a black-pink palette to bold, vibrant hues showcased her fearless approach. Bold colors and strong silhouettes, layered with diverse materials, added a surreal touch that has become a hallmark of her designs.
In her pre-show note, Kawakubo expressed a desire for lightness, which translated into the collection through childlike multicolored headpieces, frothy tulle, and oversized clown ruffs. These playful elements reappeared throughout the show, from ruffs on shoes to pink accents on shirts and coat sleeves. A new Nike x CDG collaboration, with pink midsoles and knotted ribbon blazers, added a modern edge to the lineup.
Textures were a key focus, with striped and checkerboard jacquard outerwear adding depth and contrast. The finale featured sheer trench coats stuffed with washing basket contents, blending the practical with the fantastical. This imaginative approach highlighted Kawakubo’s ability to create garments that are both wearable and thought-provoking.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection from COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS was an example of Rei Kawakubo’s innovative spirit. By merging historical references with playful and surreal elements, Kawakubo reaffirmed her position as a leading visionary in fashion, offering a hopeful perspective through her creations.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
this collection is beyond! Love how Rei Kawakubo proves there is still art in fashion! This is why I always check out a Comme des Garcons collection!