In the grand hall of the Palais de Tokyo, under the vast Parisian sky, designer Rick Owens recently unveiled his Spring Summer 2025 collection, aptly titled “Hollywood.” This collection presents a narrative that migrates from the confining roots of a small town to the flamboyant boulevards of Hollywood, where Owens found his tribe among the so-called outcasts and creatives who shaped his vision of fashion.
SPRING SUMMER 2025 COLLECTIONS
The Spring Summer 2025 menswear line is a vivid portrayal of Owens’ trademark blend of historical grandeur and contemporary edge, drawing heavily from the flamboyant and rebellious spirit of pre-code Hollywood. The collection is punctuated by dramatic silhouettes, unexpected material choices, and a profound commitment to sustainable fashion practices.
A standout feature of Owens’ latest work is the innovative use of materials. The collection showcases capes and jackets in narrow-loomed Japanese denim, finished with a tarnished gold ‘megacryst’ coating. This choice is both visually striking and environmentally conscious. The denim is processed in a Veneto-based Italian wash house that practices water conservation and purification.
The hooded biker jackets, another highlight of the collection, are crafted from milky canvas bonded with aluminum foil and vegetable-tanned parchment cowhide sourced from Solofra and Tuscany. This leather, tanned using natural tannins, represents a sustainable approach to traditional leather processing.
Beneath these robust exteriors, the collection features jumpsuits and gowns made from silk gazar woven in Como, Italy. This fabric is produced from GOTS certified organic silk, ensuring that no harmful chemicals are used during its production. This choice underscores the collection’s theme of luxury that does not come at the earth’s expense.
Collaboration is key in Owens’ collection. The knit bodysuits and t-shirts are the result of a partnership with Tanja Vidic, a Slovenian fashion graduate whose imaginative DIY knits bring a fresh and vibrant edge to the collection. Meanwhile, Dafne Balatsos, a longtime collaborator of Owens, contributes with her silver silk charmeuse robes made from the final stock of Oriental Silks.
Footwear in the collection includes suede marshmallow splint sandals and a redesigned version of the Straytukay boot, which continue Owens’ exploration of unique and statement-making shoes. These pieces complement the theatricality of the apparel, maintaining Owens’ aesthetic of standout, sculptural fashion.
Owens’ Spring Summer 2025 show highlighted themes of community and inclusion. Inviting students and faculty from Parisian fashion schools, along with longstanding friends from the trans community, the show was a vibrant celebration of diversity and unity, encapsulated by the theme of a “white satin army of love.”
The Rick Owens Spring Summer 2025 collection underscores the power of fashion as a narrative and transformative tool. It blends historical influences with modern sustainability, showcasing Owens’ ability to push the boundaries of menswear while promoting a message of inclusion and environmental responsibility.
