Kiko Kostadinov delves into the conceptual realms of film and fashion, exploring their potential as platforms for storytelling on the male body. Presented during the recently finished Paris Fashion Week, the spring summer 2024 collection reflects the imperfect beauty of everyday life, where cultures, roles, and occasions intertwine.
SPRING SUMMER 2024 COLLECTIONS
Drawing inspiration from the spatial works of conceptual artist Tom Burr, the fashion show at the Lycee Henri IV becomes a liminal space bridging the realms of archives, backstage, and front-of-house. Burr’s influence is also evident in the collection itself, with its tacked, pleated, and disrupted surfaces.
Referencing Pier Paolo Pasolini’s short film “La Ricotta,” which captures glimpses of youth and young manhood, the collection continues its irreverent exploration of formalities in disarray. Pasolini’s vignettes inform the palette, running order, and moments of nocturnal elegance throughout the collection.
Functional tabs, epaulettes, flat pleats, and hand-rolled raw jersey appliqués are integral to the garment construction this season. The collection features a range of subtle tonalities, with greys, browns, and greens interwoven with pops of cadmium yellow, cobalt blue, rose, lilac, and carmine. Fabrics transition between matte and shine, encompassing ultra-light shirting cottons, bonded jersey, lurex metallics, hammered satin, iridescent wool, and diamond jacquard.
Playful elements are introduced through Bulgarian star and flower embroideries, ruffled gazar collars, ornamental buttons, and satin tuxedo stripes, injecting moments of frivolity into the structured jackets and coats with an 1980s-inspired flair. Sensual tension is expressed through gilet jumpsuits, belted milano knit robe coats, and zip jersey tunics, striking a balance between dressed and undressed aesthetics. Hybrid shirts and shirt jackets feature knotted jersey side panels, double collars, and multi-button configurations, allowing for interpretation and experimentation.
Contrast striped k-kable knitwear creates a graphic layered effect, intertwining gilets, cardigans, and thin scarves. Fine k-shaped patterns accentuate kinetic trouser shapes, pleated tanks, and t-shirts.
Footwear options include the wave-soled tonkin boot, reimagined as a massive sandal, alongside new flat slip-ons crafted from crinkled leather.
