Dior Men showcased its Fall Winter 2025 collection during Paris Fashion Week, led by Artistic Director Kim Jones. Unveiled on January 24, 2025, the collection drew heavily from Christian Dior’s renowned Ligne H collection from 1954-55, reinterpreting its essence to explore the evolution of menswear. Through this lens, the collection became a study of transformation, bridging historical influences with a modern sensibility.
Kim Jones delved into key moments in fashion history, particularly the shift from the ornate and extravagant styles of the 18th century to the structured, practical aesthetics of the 19th century. This historical context, however, served as a reference rather than a blueprint. “While much of the collection refers to the history of fashion, it is not about creating historical fashion,” Jones explained, emphasizing that the collection’s focus was firmly on the present. By revisiting Dior’s foundational designs, Jones sought to reimagine them for the contemporary era, ensuring they resonate with today’s audience.
The collection balanced sharp tailoring with fluid shapes, creating a dialogue between structure and ease. Voluminous robes and opera coats, borrowed from Dior’s women’s archive, were cinched with belts, offering a modern reinterpretation of traditional silhouettes. Rich fabrics such as silk and satin added a sense of movement and lightness, while their sheen elevated the designs without relying on excessive embellishment. Despite the luxurious materials, Jones opted for clean, precise detailing that allowed the craftsmanship to take center stage.
Transformative designs were a core theme, with garments like coats that could transform into skirts embodying the collection’s innovative approach. Jones also explored the intersection of masculine and feminine styles, incorporating elements of couture into classic menswear tailoring.
The inspiration of Casanova served as a recurring motif, capturing a sense of extravagance and a balance of masculine and feminine aesthetics. This influence was evident in the accessories, including masks that nodded to the opulence of the 18th century and leather goods that combined softness with precise hardware. Roller bags crafted from shearling and Normandie totes in premium leather represented this thoughtful balance.
Footwear was another standout feature, mixing traditional techniques with bold creative choices. Classic leather dress shoes and polished boots were adorned with satin bow-like details, playfully referred to as “bow caps.” Hybrid trainers, embellished with hand embroidery inspired by archival designs from 1961.
Intricate embroidery was a hallmark of the collection, with designs inspired by Christian Dior’s 1948 Pondichéry look. This embroidery, which appeared prominently on a pink robe closing the show, echoed throughout the collection in smaller details. The influence extended to accessories, such as sterling silver chatelaines featuring couturier tools, underscoring the connection between past and present craftsmanship.
Patterns like pinstripes and herringbone were reimagined with intricate glass beadwork, transforming them into designs that felt simultaneously familiar and fresh. Even understated details, such as raindrop motifs created with varying sizes of beads, showcased the artistry behind each piece. Through this collection, Kim Jones offered a thoughtful exploration of menswear, where history and innovation came together in a way that felt both relevant and forward-thinking.
DIRECTION: VILLA EUGÉNIE
SHOW CONCEPT: KIM JONES
MUSIC: TIME LAPSE (MICHAEL NYMAN), PERFORMED BY MICHAEL NYMAN BAND, © MICHAEL NYMAN LTD / CHESTER MUSIC, (P) 2018 MICHAEL NYMAN LTD, COURTESY OF WISE MUSIC FRANCE
MUSIC SUPERVISION: SIMON PARRIS
MOVEMENT DIRECTION: LES CHILD
STYLING: MELANIE WARD
CASTING: SHELLEY DURKAN
MAKE-UP: PETER PHILIPS FOR DIOR
HAIR: GUIDO PALAU
HATS: STEPHEN JONES
DIOR JOAILLERIE
VICTOIRE DE CASTELLANE
EXTRA SPECIAL THANKS AND LOVE TO: AMANDA HARLECH
A WARM THANKS TO THE ATELIERS AND THE SUPPLIERS OF THE HOUSE
