Diesel’s Pre-Spring 2025 collection, under the visionary direction of Glenn Martens, transcends traditional fashion boundaries. The collection, aptly described as “Diesel for every layer of life,” effortlessly transitions from intimate second-skin underwear to daring subversions of tailoring. This lineup exemplifies Diesel’s commitment to offering fashion for all occasions, day or night.
“This is a collection that blurs the lines: is tailoring smart or casual? Is a piece denim, or is it trompe l’oeil? And with our new underwear, is it an intimate piece, or is it ready-to-wear? Diesel defies all conventions, breaking from the norm to live on its own terms – this is the path to successful living,” says Diesel’s creative director Glenn Martens.
The collection is a testament to Diesel’s innovative fabric techniques and unique design ethos. Wool tailoring features a striking screen-coated front, creating a dual effect with matte wool on the back and a shiny coating on the front, seen in city coats, suit jackets, and pants. This technique extends to check cotton shirts, adding a futuristic touch to classic styles. A standout piece is the zip-fronted long-sleeve leather dress with a jersey back, paired with jersey leggings printed to resemble skinny jeans.
Diesel’s playful subversion of tailoring continues with denim suit jackets printed to mimic pinstripes, a key element in their interpretation of the three-piece suit, matched with a zip-up denim vest and mini skirt. Another innovative ensemble is a jersey three-piece that looks like denim but comprises a ruched sweatshirt, polo shirt, and trackpants.
Fabric innovation shines with pieces like a fleece zip-up that appears as denim, ideal with jersey leggings that resemble skinny jeans. Bouclé, reimagined in denim, features in city coats, sweaters, and baggy pants. Diesel’s denim padded outerwear now boasts water-repellent properties, and jacquard fabrics, styled to look like denim, creatively place whiskering in unexpected areas, such as at the waist and chest.
Catwalk ideas infuse the collection, with belt-bags transforming into crop tops, bra tops, and mini skirts. Underwear transcends its traditional role, becoming overt in jersey dresses, vest tops, cardigans, and skirts, all trimmed and structured by the stitch lines of bras, thongs, or corsets. Vividly colored knits, trimmed with tufting, pay homage to punk’s spiked hair.
Prints are louder than ever, with standout designs like a close-up of a glaring spotlight or crinkled aluminium foil creating a shattering effect. Floral prints on shirts and distressed skirts juxtapose politeness with rebellion, while unique prints by Berlin tattoo artist Sagflap introduce a twisted fantasy element.
Utilitarian pieces for urban living include zip-up leather jackets with oversized bellow pockets and faded denim knit cardigans, vests, and dresses with attached utility pockets. Underwear emerges as the most versatile garment, with new Diesel pieces such as leggings and denim-effect underwear including vests, miniskirts, long-sleeve tops, and dresses.
Footwear innovations feature camo boots and pumps printed on transparent mesh, with metal stiletto heels and a metal D detail. The same styles are available in black patent. Distressed denim loafers and aged baseball sneakers add a rugged edge to the collection.
Accessories include the Play bag in new photo print colors like blue sky, red roses, pink sweets, and green grass. The Scrunch-D bag, first seen at the FW25 show, now comes in shiny black patent. Miniature Diesel bags serve as charms attached to larger bags.
The new jewelry collection sets the season’s tone by reinterpreting traditional designs in stainless steel and refined sterling silver. The latest Wonder D bangle-watch for women features a transparent shell in classic Diesel pop colors.
Diesel’s Pre-Spring 2025 Collection is a daring blend of innovation and tradition, designed for those who live life on their own terms. Glenn Martens’ creative direction ensures that Diesel continues to push boundaries, offering a dynamic and inclusive fashion experience.
