The industry behind gemstones and fine jewelry is based on tradition, innovation, and masterful artistry. Among the most iconic and elegant diamond cuts is the Asscher cut, a style that has captivated jewelry lovers for over a century. Known for its precise geometry and mesmerizing light reflection, the Asscher cut has a fascinating story.
MMSCENE fashion editors explore the full history of the Asscher cut, from its origin to its place in the contemporary men’s jewelry design.
Origin of the Asscher Cut
The Asscher design was first introduced in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, a member of the prestigious Asscher family of Amsterdam. The family owned and operated the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, one of the most influential diamond-cutting houses in the world at the time. Joseph Asscher developed this distinctive cut as a response to the growing popularity of the Art Deco movement, a style characterized by bold geometric forms, symmetry, and a forward-looking sense of luxury.
Unlike the traditional round brilliant cut, the Asscher cut featured a square shape with deeply trimmed corners, giving it an octagonal outline. The cut was an innovative hybrid of the emerald cut’s step facets and the brilliance sought after in round diamonds, resulting in a dramatic and timeless design that quickly gained attention in the early 20th century.
Menswear Jewelry Inspiration
During the Art Deco era, men’s jewelry also embraced bold geometric designs, often incorporating diamonds and gemstones into cufflinks, tie bars, and signet rings. The Asscher design, with its architectural precision, became a popular choice for men’s accessories, reflecting sophistication and modernity. Even today, the cut is a striking option for men’s rings, offering a vintage yet refined aesthetic.
Craftsmanship and Precision
What sets the Asscher shaped gemstone apart from other diamond cuts is the level of precision required in its creation. The original Asscher shaping consisted of 58 carefully arranged step-cut facets. These facets are layered symmetrically to create a captivating “hall of mirrors” effect a deep and striking visual impact that reflects light in a way that few other cuts can replicate.
Crafting an Asscher cut demands a high level of skill and attention to detail. Any imperfection in symmetry or alignment can disrupt the internal reflections and reduce the stone’s brilliance. For this reason, the cut is typically reserved for diamonds of exceptional clarity, as inclusions or flaws are more visible through the large open table and clean lines.
Menswear Jewelry Tips
For men looking to incorporate Asscher cut diamonds into their style, consider minimalist designs that emphasize the stone’s clarity and symmetry. A single diamond in a platinum or white gold signet ring can make a bold statement, while cufflinks featuring Asscher shaped stones add a touch of elegance to formalwear. Pair these with tailored suits or monochromatic outfits to let the jewelry stand out as a centerpiece.
Identifying an Authentic Asscher Cut
Recognizing a genuine Asscher cut involves understanding its key characteristics. An authentic Asscher cut diamond has a square outline with cropped, beveled corners. The hallmark of the cut is the concentric square pattern visible when looking directly into the table of the stone created by its perfectly symmetrical step facets.
One of the distinguishing visual effects of the Asscher cut is its deep center, which draws the eye inward. Unlike more fiery cuts like the round brilliant, the Asscher design offers a more subtle, elegant sparkle with a dramatic, architectural quality. Its unique brilliance lies in its clarity and the clean reflection of light through its facets.
A Favorite Among Celebrities
Throughout its history, the Asscher cut has enjoyed significant popularity among celebrities and collectors. Elizabeth Taylor famously owned an Asscher cut diamond ring, adding to the cut’s prestige and desirability. In more recent times, celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Zooey Deschanel, and Jessica Alba have chosen Asscher cut engagement rings, favoring the cut’s vintage sophistication and distinctive charm.
Menswear Jewelry Appeal
However, in men’s fashion, the Asscher shape is also gaining traction for wedding bands and accent pieces. Its vintage roots and understated sparkle make it ideal for men who appreciate timeless designs. Pairing an Asscher cut diamond with darker metals like black titanium or brushed gold can create a modern yet masculine look.
For men who prefer a more understated look, pairing Asscher cut diamonds with onyx or other dark gemstones can create a striking contrast. This combination works beautifully in cufflinks, bracelets, or even pendants, adding a subtle yet luxurious touch to any outfit.
Light, Reflection, and the “Hall of Mirrors”
One of the most captivating features of the Asscher designed gemstone is its ability to manipulate light. The step-cut design doesn’t produce the same kind of sparkle or “fire” as a brilliant cut, but instead creates a deep, mirror-like effect that gives the illusion of infinite depth. This “hall of mirrors” appearance is what makes the Asscher aesthetic so compelling to the eye.
Achieving this visual phenomenon requires impeccable cutting precision. Every angle, every facet must align perfectly to ensure light is reflected internally in a symmetrical, consistent pattern. This is why craftsmanship plays such a vital role in the success of an Asscher cut diamond.
Trends and Modern Inspiration
Despite being over a century old, the Asscher cut remains highly relevant in contemporary jewelry design. Modern jewelers often incorporate the Asscher cut into updated settings, such as halo designs, mixed metal bands, and rings featuring side stones or colored gems. These fresh takes allow the cut’s vintage roots to shine through in a modern context, offering a perfect blend of old-world charm and new-world creativity.
Caring for an Asscher Cut Diamond
Due to its large, open table and step-cut facets, Asscher shaped diamonds require regular maintenance to keep them looking their best. Dirt, oils, and grime can easily accumulate and dull the stone’s brilliance. Cleaning with a soft brush, warm water, and mild soap can help maintain its clarity and sparkle.
It’s also recommended to have the stone inspected periodically by a professional jeweler. They can check the setting and ensure that the stone remains secure and the facets remain undamaged, especially in rings that are worn daily.
Future of the Asscher Design
With the advancement of diamond-cutting technology, the Asscher design has evolved. Modern techniques such as laser cutting and computer-aided design (CAD) have made it possible to create even more precise and consistent cuts. The result is a new generation of Asscher cut diamonds with enhanced brilliance and symmetry.
For men embracing jewelry as a form of self-expression, the Asscher features offers a unique way to combine heritage with contemporary style. Whether featured in a bold signet ring or understated cufflinks, the cut’s timeless appeal ensures it remains a versatile choice for any wardrobe.
