Glenn Martens takes Diesel into uncharted territory with the Fall Winter 2025 collection, a study in disruption and raw creativity. Presented within the world’s largest graffiti installation, the show sets a new standard for rebellion, where craftsmanship collides with street energy. This season challenges traditional fashion codes, pushing Diesel’s identity to the extreme.
The collection thrives on exaggerated forms and unexpected combinations. Collarless bouclé jackets contrast with denim peplums that mimic jeans, while men’s tailoring appears stripped down in raw-cut neoprene. Diesel’s signature low-rise aesthetic takes on a new life, with bumster jeans sitting impossibly low, often held together by stretch waistbands that shift proportions. Houndstooth jacquards are layered, deconstructed, and distressed, while bouclé coats are intentionally frayed, embracing imperfection as a design element.
Outerwear dominates with padded hooded jackets that wrap around the body like armor, worn over barely-there skirts and jeans. Boiled leather takes on sculptural shapes, while flocked tulle mimics the imprint of garments from the past, creating an almost ghost-like effect. A life-sized plaster print of a shirt applied directly onto the body underscores Diesel’s fearless approach to fashion.
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Industrial tones define much of the collection, but unexpected bursts of color inject energy. Acid-bright knits clash against grayscale outerwear, while a ruffled yellow bandeau and an orange wrap dress add an element of unpredictability. Diesel continues its obsession with experimental materials, introducing plasticized denim that gives jackets, bustiers, and jeans a laminated, high-gloss look. Trompe l’oeil rubber pieces mimic knitwear textures, further distorting perception.
Diesel’s accessory lineup continues to challenge traditional luxury. The new unisex Flag-D and Load-D bags introduce both slouchy and structured silhouettes. Footwear takes a rebellious turn with ultra-chunky men’s boots and distressed houndstooth slippers. Eyewear debuts the Liquifie-D family, where fluid, glue-like transparency creates a distorted effect, while the D-Curve, Wrap-D, and D-Rush watches offer a fresh interpretation of Diesel’s oval D motif.
A key feature of this season is the Street Art Capsule Collection, launching February 27. Six graffiti artists: Roy XR Chen (China), Ryota Daimon (Japan), Farai Engelbrecht (South Africa), Phree Hester (USA), Brianna Toomer (France), and Red Longo (Italy), bring their raw creativity to Diesel’s retail spaces worldwide. Each artist customized Diesel pieces with their own graffiti, which were then scanned and printed onto garments, translating the show’s urban energy into wearable art.
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With 3.2 kilometers of fabric covered in graffiti across eight countries, the Diesel FW25 show serves as more than just a fashion event. Thousands of artists, from established names to emerging talents, contributed to this massive installation.
