Diesel’s Spring Summer 2025 collection, unveiled in Milan, cemented Glenn Martens’ position as a pioneer of disruptive fashion. With a show built from 14,800kg of denim scraps, the spectacle was not just a display of cutting-edge design but a bold statement on circularity. Martens’ vision for Diesel is clear—there’s beauty in the discarded, and this collection brought that philosophy to life through its use of recycled materials and distressed aesthetics.
Spring Summer 2025
The runway itself was a testament to the brand’s commitment to sustainability, highlighting the future of Diesel in circular production methods. Denim waste, collected from Diesel’s own manufacturing, was repurposed for a stunning set that will be entirely reused post-show. Martens is pushing the brand to explore every possible avenue for recycling and reuse, proving that high fashion can also be eco-conscious without compromising on creativity.
Diesel’s iconic denim took on a new life this season, with an emphasis on experimental techniques. Micro denim shorts featured cascading fringe embroidery that defied the usual limits of distressing. A standout leather double-breasted jacket, treated to resemble worn denim, was paired with tufted seam jeans—a bold fusion of textures and finishes. Delicate chambray slip dresses were adorned with similar fringe details, blending the rugged with the refined in a seamless narrative of elevated streetwear.
Beyond denim, the collection showcased Diesel’s technical prowess in manipulating fabric. Cotton mini dresses and sweatshirts, appearing distressed, were actually created through a devoré jacquard process, revealing delicate tulle beneath. Meanwhile, tailored jackets constructed from double loom jacquard fabric revealed intricate, lasered patterns. These unexpected fabric treatments underscored Martens’ ability to elevate traditional garments into avant-garde pieces without sacrificing wearability.
Prints, too, played a significant role in the collection. Classic Prince of Wales checks were cleverly applied to jersey tanks and dresses, strategically bonded to leave certain areas exposed, creating a dialogue between the garment and the wearer’s body. Diesel took this motif further, printing the checks on PVC, then cutting them into bikinis and tailored pieces with exaggerated fringing—a touch that blurred the line between structured tailoring and playful summer silhouettes.
Denim innovation reached new heights with artisanal pieces like a coat made entirely from leftover spools of denim thread, echoing the set’s recycled theme. Diesel’s signature relaxed denim styles were given new life through double loom construction, lasered to create a destroyed, whiskered effect. Even the color palette was pushed into new territory with overdyed denim in camel tones, offering a fresh perspective on classic blue jeans.
Accessories offered playful nods to the collection’s sustainable ethos. The Play bag, adorned with bandana prints, was joined by the debut of the sculptural Play-Double-D bag. Meanwhile, the TRASH-D bag embraced Diesel’s recycled materials narrative, incorporating knotted bandanas. Footwear continued the exploration of transparency with the Lake Platform mule and sock boot, while trompe l’oeil boots mimicked tight jeans, blending fashion and humor effortlessly.
The Spring Summer 2025 show wasn’t just about individual pieces—it was about a new direction for Diesel as a brand. With a focus on reworking archival prints, upcycling materials, and pushing the boundaries of fabric manipulation, Martens has set a bold precedent for circular fashion. The debut of Diesel’s first eyewear collection with Luxottica further solidified this shift, with distressed frames complementing the collection’s overall theme of destruction and renewal.
