Bianca Saunders, a recent laureate of the 2024 BFC/GQ Designer Fashion Fund, introduced her Spring Summer 25 Collection, an exploration of identity and persona. Titled “The Hotel,” this collection gets its inspiration from Bradley Smith‘s 1940s Jamaican resort photographs, capturing the unique character of the staff. Through these images, Saunders creates a narrative-rich series of garments, using the collection to reinterpret these narratives.
In “The Hotel,” Saunders reimagines menswear by altering classic tailoring techniques. She incorporates a wool-cotton evening jacket with a redefined narrow shawl lapel and innovatively slanted welt pockets, challenging traditional resort wear norms. Shirts with hidden plackets and playful prints echo the resort life, while unexpected details like plastic cornucopia prints on ties give it a layer of irony and critique.
This season introduces a distinctive print—an amorphous ripple that subtly reflects the male form, countering the usual emphasis on womenswear’s hourglass figure. The print decorates slim-fit button-downs with oversized collars and matching leggings, and is complemented by asymmetric blouses and shirts featuring elaborate draping and scarf accents.
The collection also pays tribute to Saunders’ Jamaican roots. Highlights include a sequin-flecked fleece tracksuit that mirrors the Jamaican night sky, upgrading casual glamour for men. Additionally, Saunders nods to Jamaican school uniforms with a semi-fitted shirt paired with a creatively designed skort, alongside accessories like vinyl bags and oversized tanks that feature local sayings and tourist-inspired slogans.
Sustainability is a key aspect of Saunders’ work, with this collection showcasing fabrics from Nona Source, an LVMH-supported initiative for sustainable textiles. Coinciding with the collection’s debut, Saunders launches her inaugural line of footwear, made in partnership with the Portuguese Association of Footwear and Leather Goods. This footwear range spans from leather boots to square-toed knit slip-ons. Take a closer look at the Bianca Saunders Spring Summer 25 collection in the Gallery below:
i am so annoyed Bianca Saunders doesn’t get more credit where credit is due! Amazing menswear collections season after season!